Planning a visit to Treme? Here's all you need to know

Hurricane Katrina The catastrophic weather system that hit the Mississippi Gulf Coast in August 2005. Just don't call the subsequent flooding of the city a "natural disaster". It was, as Creighton Bernette (the mighty John Goodman) bellows at a misinformed British TV journalist, "A man-made catastrophe of epic fucking proportions!" Davis McAlary Quixotic bohemian slacker musician (portrayed with uncanny accuracy by Steve Zahn) whose civic pride is so unswerving and relentless it makes him kind of a tool most of the time. Post-flood life does not suit his libertarian outlook. "I just want my city back!" he cries, before writing another song about strippers. Where y'at? Multi-use holler enquiring as to current location, activities you may be participating in, and general state of health. Other exclamations include "True dat!", a resignation to the facts of a situation, and "Who dat?", questioning which visiting sports teams have the temerity to suggest they may win against the locals. Barq's Locally created root beer with none-more-pithy slogan – "Drink Barq's. It's good." – coincidentally Kurt Cobain's immediate pre-suicide beverage of choice. Among myriad local product placements, you'll also see Abita Amber beer, drunk constantly with minimal forethought for sobriety. OPP Are you, as Naughty By Nature asked in 1991, "down" with OPP? In Treme, this isn't Other People's Property but Orleans Parish Prison. The flooding brings bureaucratic chaos to the city's legal and custodial systems, the worst fall-out of which provides one of the show's most poignant storylines. Wendell Pierce Wire fans will know this New Orleans native as Bunk Moreland, the instantly lovable but boozy detective with an eye for the ladies. In Treme, he plays Antoine Batiste, the instantly lovable but boozy trombone player with an eye for the ladies. He skips out on a lot more cab fares in Treme. Vaughan's Lounge Neighbourhood jazz club where Kermit Ruffins famously blows the place up (musically) every Thursday night, when they also have a free barbecue. And red beans and rice. And Abita. In fact, just being here on a Thursday night exposes you to every New Orleans reference you will ever need. Mardi Gras Indians Mysterious tribes combining African-Caribbean and Native American customs. The tribes compete via the "prettiness" of their dances and costumes, usually outrageously huge, feathery creations. Intensely proud of their tradition, with revered "chiefs", Treme's being played by the compelling Clarke Peters (Lester Freamon in The Wire). Second Line A colourful, musical parade, so prevalent in New Orleans that you can barely cross the street for them. The only way to avoid being mown down in a flurry of brass is to join the festivities. It's usually hard to work out whether you've stumbled upon a community celebration, a wedding or someone's funeral. Go-cups Most towns in the US would have you tried as an alcohol-crazed deviant for walking around with an adult booze drink, but in New Orleans it's borderline compulsory. Disposable, plastic go-cups keep you drunk between venues, and are available in any bar, restaurant and, for all I know, doctors' waiting rooms and churches. Kermit Ruffins Charismatic trumpeter and one of several musicians starring as themselves. Elvis Costello turns up to watch him play. Laidback Kermit is oblivious to the networking opportunity, prompting an exasperated Davis to ask, "Is this all you want to do – get high, play trumpet and barbecue?" Kermit thinks. "That'll work," he nods. • Treme begins on Friday February 18 on Sky Atlantic